Harman Igniter with Bracket (Absolute 43): 1-00-777200

This kit was designed for the original Absolute 43 with the old style burnpot. These units were made between 2014 - 2016. If you’re unsure if your unit was made between those date ranges, check to see if your burnpot has a pivoting fire plate, shown in the diagram below.

Tip: If you are not sure what burn pot you have, watch this video.

 

Important:

There have been problems with the fire-plate warping and expanding which has led to many units not igniting properly. Replacing this igniter and plate will often resolve ignition problems. Ignition issues may persist if the fire-plate or other parts of the burn pot are warped.

Note: We recommend changing the entire burn-pot to the updated Version Gen.2.0. This is the most current version of the burn-pot shipped with 2018 units and newer. Click here to see the latest burn-pot update

Replacement For Part Number:

• 1-00-777200

View Compatible Models

UPC: 652174615025

Length	3"
Diameter	3/8"
Watts	400

Assembly Instructions For Harman Igniter with Bracket (Absolute 43): 1-00-777200

Replacing the igniter on the Absolute43 with a pre2017 burnpot: Click Here to Download the PDF Instructions

1. Disconnect Power
2. Remove the ash pan
3. Remove the Swing Plate. Figure 1.
4. Open the bottom of the burnpot by swinging the clean-out cover to the left, remove any debris that has developed. Figure 2.
5. Remove the two 1/4-20” allen head bolts on the outer front corners of the burnpot using the 3/16” allen wrench supplied with the stove hardware pack in the unit (came with the stove), then remove the burnpot grate by pulling forward. Figure 3.
6. Remove the left rear motor cover located below the hopper and locate the sky blue and yellow wires that go to the igniter through the rear of the feeder. Cut away any cable ties to release the extra loop of wire so the wire can be drawn into the feeder when the igniter is removed from the burnpot.
7. Remove the front igniter cover by bending the metal tab on the left forward from the burnpot grate. With the tab bent out, the cover should lift up off the main bracket hooks. (Note how the wires from the igniter loop toward the front of the burnpot before routing toward the rear of feeder when the igniter is in place.) The igniter will pull straight out of the main bracket. Figure 4.
8. Pull the igniter wires forward through the feeder body until the male/female connectors are out enough to disconnect the old igniter.
9. Connect new igniter and pull the connectors back through the feeder body pulling on the wire from the rear of the unit while making sure the connectors don’t get caught on the burnpot. (Note: Make sure the small weld on the end of the igniter core opposite the wire end is facing front to allow the igniter to fully slide back into the igniter bracket.)
10. With the igniter fully seated into the igniter bracket, re-install the front igniter cover over the hooks of the main igniter bracket, bend tab away from you to keep it securely in place. NOTE: There should be NO WIRES over the lower clean-out hole. It is very important that the wires are pulled to the rear of the feeder body as far a possible.
11. Close and tighten the bottom clean-out cover.
12. Clean the burnpot grate from any debris or buildup and re-install the two 1/4-20” bolts.
13. Replace swing plate making sure the bend is toward the burnpot.
14. Reinstall ash pan.
15. Re-Tie wrap any extra wires in the rear of the unit with tie wraps included in kit.

Airflow:

-It is important to make sure your burn pot and venting are clean. A build-up of carbon or ash in the burn pot or venting system can restrict airflow through the unit. Often the igniter is working fine, and this restriction in airflow is what causes issues with ignition. If these areas of the stove are clean and your stove will not ignite or there is a long delay during ignition you should inspect your door gasket, door latch, and burn pot ignitor cover. If the door does not make a tight seal, air can be drawn into the stove through this area instead of being pulled through the neck of the burn pot and across the ignitor.

Control Board Display:

-If your igniter light is not illuminated on the control board check the igniter toggle switch to make sure it is not in the "manual" position. The toggle switch MUST be in the auto position in order to allow the control board to send power to the element.

Check The Burn Pot:

-If the ignitor light is illuminated on your control board, the unit feeds fuel but the pellets do not ignite, open the door and *carefully* feel around the burn pot to see if you can sense any warmth. If you do not feel any warmth or see a visible glow it's likely that the ignitor has failed. If you feel warmth/heat around the burn pot it is possible that you have an airflow issue, build-up in the holes in the burn pot / around the ignitor, or you may have an issue with the ignitor cradle/ holder.

Additional Info:

If you are experiencing ignition issues, watch this video.

Click here to purchase the burn pot update kit.

It is advisable to ALWAYS replace your door gasket when you are replacing an igniter. A leaking door gasket is often a contributing factor to igniter failure.

Troubleshooting Igniters:

Igniter failure can be verified on one of three ways. The easiest and most common way to see if the igniter is working is to start your stove or grill and visually look for the orange glow; however, some appliances do not have a visual way to do this, so you may have to physically feel around in the burn pot after the stove has been on for a few minutes to “feel” for heat being generated. If you can see the glow or can feel the heat from the igniter, chances are that the igniter is actually working. If this is the case, retry the startup process. Make sure your burn pot is seated correctly if it is removable. Make sure that your ash pan, door or hopper lid is closed as this will provide an airtight seal on the stove, which most igniters will require for proper ignition. If you still do not have any luck, give the stove a good cleaning, including the vent, and try again. If these attempts fail, further troubleshooting will be required, which leads us to the third method.

For this method, you will need a DMM (Digital Multi-Meter). Gain access to the igniter and remove it from the stove or insert. While you are taking the igniter out, verify that it is installed correctly with the correct mounting equipment, screws, etc.. With the igniter removed from the stove, you will need to look over the part to find the rated watts, it’s usually stamped on the metal somewhere. If you cannot find it, look on our website for the correct igniter; the information you are looking for will be under “technical specs”

If your Ohms reading is within 10%, more or less than the rating (46Ω +/- 10%), it’s good. If the igniter has a “contained short” or a short within itself and not grounding out, your Ohms reading will be very low...usually in the single digits. Generally, you cannot have a faulty igniter with too high of a resistance reading unless an igniter is installed that is way out of spec. An example of this would be your stove requires a 300W igniter but the stove has a 250W igniter installed. The reading in this scenario would be 52Ω. The reading would be correct to the igniter but would be the wrong value for the specified 300W igniter. That’s why it’s usually good to look at the part itself for the watts rating.

Unfortunately, sometimes products do not work like they are supposed to. We offer a 90 day warranty on manufacturer defects. Some manufacturers make this a very simple and easy process unfortunately others do not. Items must be used in accordance with the manufacturers guidelines to qualify for warranty replacement. Please be advised that warranty claims for these parts may take up to 4 weeks for processing, and customers must cover shipping.

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