Harman Control Board, 1-00-05886

$249.99
SKU 1-00-05886
MPN 1-00-05886

Description

This control board is compatible with: Advance, Accentra FS, Accentra Insert,52i, P35i, P43, P61A, P68, XXV. If your stove has a BLACK ESP probe you will need to change it to the RED ESP part #3-20-00844


Replacement For Part Numbers:
  • 1-00-05886
  • 3-20-04220
  • 3-20-05374
  • 3-20-05237
  • 3-20-05292
  • 3-20-05886

Compatible Models

    Harman
  • Advance
  • Accentra FS
  • Accentra Insert
  • 52i
  • P35i
  • P43
  • P61A
  • P68
  • XXV

Video

Instructions

Assembly Instructions For Harman Control Board, 1-00-05886

The Control Board/ESP combination is responsible for all high limit safety control. There are 2 high limits, one normal operation high limit and one backup high limit. The control has an automatic diagnostic circuit that continuously monitors the ESP and Room Sensor for faults. If a fault should occur, the control sends a status alert and at the same time the unit goes down to minimum feed/ minimum burn as a safety condition. 


Click here: DIP Switch Setting Chart

Helpful Tips

Harman Digital Control Board

Troubleshooting Tips

If your Harman pellet stove or insert detects a problem, the status light will blink a series of quick blinks followed by a pause, then blink again. These blinks are designed to let the stove user or technician quickly diagnose where the problem might be.

Here is the list of codes:

2 blinks – Air flow problem

3 blinks – Exhaust temp signal lost

4 blinks – Room temp signal lost (only during operation in the room sensing mode)

5 blinks- Failure to ignite within 36 minute start-up time

6 blinks- Controller has detected poor combustion over a 25 minute running time


Harman Pellet Stove - What to do if Your Stove Will Not Turn Off


This is a common problem that many Harman pellet stove owners may experience from time to time and it can be very frustrating for the user. The problem presents itself usually one of two different ways; the stove is cold but power won’t turn off or the stove is warm and is continually feeding very slowly and will only shut down if it runs out of pellets.


Scenario 1 - Cold Stove, Won’t Turn Off When Powered ‘OFF’


The stove is cold. The MODE selection dial is set to OFF and combustion/ exhaust blower continues to run. On the control panel, the only lights that are illuminated are POWER and 

COMBUSTION FAN. If you unplug the stove, the loss of power will cause the stove to turn off and if you plug it back in, the stove may remain off but when the MODE dial is turned the problem repeats itself or, in some instances the stove may enter right back into the error. Additionally, when this error occurs, the stove will NOT advance into the STARTUP mode either, pellets will not feed into the burnpot.


So, here’s what wrong; the pressure switch, commonly referred to as the vacuum switch, is not closing. When the MODE dial is turned from the OFF position, first in the order of operations, the combustion fan is powered up, which creates airflow through the stove. The pressure switch in the stove is here for this purpose, to detect this airflow. At startup, once his operation has been established or “proofed”, the controller detects the closed circuit from the pressure switch and moves to the next order of operation, which is fuel feed and igniter ON. If the pressure switch does not close or the controller does not receive the signal of the closed circuit, the stove will continue to run indefinitely. Additionally, the stove will also not shut off when the MODE dial is turned to OFF unless the pressure switch is closed.


Many folks that read the manual and are able to understand this concept are quick to think that the pressure switch is bad but that is rarely the case. In the hundred or so times I have encountered this problem, maybe once or twice has it actually been a faulty pressure switch so here’s what to look for.



  1. Fan Obstruction - The most common problem is an obstructed combustion fan. Inspect the blower. Verify that it is spinning. If not, there may be a pellet caught in the cooling fan on the backside of it or something like a bird caught in the front side of it preventing it from turning.
  2. Vent Obstruction - The second most common problem is a vent that is obstructed. If there is a bird’s nest in the vent, a dead squirrel, bee’s nest or if the vent is just plain dirty, the combustion fan may not be able to move any air out of the stove and therefore, the pressure switch will not detect any airflow. This is very common with inserts. Ash will fall down the flue and deposit itself at the base of the blower and the blower may not have enough power to get itself spinning.
  3. Air Leak - When the stove is running, the entire inside of the stove is under vacuum pressure as the combustion blower sucks air from the stove and sends it out the vent. IF the hopper lid isn’t sealing, if the fines collection box’s cover isn't secured properly or if the door of the stove isn’t fully closed and latched, or perhaps a gasket for the door or hopper lid is compromised, the pressure switch will not close.
  4. Not Enough Pressure - With some pellet stove models, if the combustion fan cover or ash pan are not installed in the stove, the stove will not be able to create enough pressure to close the switch. I forget which models these are but it is a real thing.
  5. Broken Hopper Lid Switch - Not all pellet stove models from Harman will have a hopper lid switch but if yours does have one, it is wired in series with the pressure switch. The lid switch needs to close in order for the pressure switch to get power. You can troubleshoot this by locating the pressure switch and disconnecting the red and black wires (these wires lead into a gray coated sleeve that runs up to the hopper) that bridge the connection between the white wire and the pressure switch. If this solves the problem, replace the hopper lid switch.


Scenario 2 - The Stove Will Not Shutdown and Continues to Run until the Hopper is Empty


Harman Pellet Stoves are somewhat unique in their feed system design, unlike most pellet stoves that used a gravity feed system, in a Harman stove, the fuel is fed horizontally toward the fire and the coals actually sit behind a slight incline, which allows the fire to burn naturally from the top down. While this approach has many advantages with regards to efficiency and combustion flow, to prevent the fire from burning backward in the stove, the fuel must always be advancing forward, and this is true even during the shutdown process. To achieve shutdown, to get the fire to extinguish itself out, the fuel feed is slowed to 10% and very slowly the air overpowers the fire. When the exhaust sensing probe (ESP) in the stove senses a fall in exhaust temperature below 95°F, the controller cuts power to the stove and the stove will remain ‘OFF’ until a call for heat is initiated again. If the stove continues to run until the hopper is empty, here’s what to look for.



  1. Make Sure You Give it Enough Time - Sometimes we all just become too impatient. Harman Pellet Stoves can run upwards of an hour in shutdown mode, make sure you give the stove enough time to turn off and likewise, make sure there is enough fuel in the hopper to sustain a proper shutdown. There’s no harm in running out of pellets but if your waiting and watching for it to shutdown normally you will need enough fuel to make that happen.
  2. Very Dirty Stove and/or Dirty ESP Sensor - Harman Pellet Stoves can seemingly run forever without much maintenance and while this may seem like a benefit of owning one, the result of too much neglect will be shutdown errors. Clean the stove and venting very well and the problem may remedy itself.
  3. Improper Wiring - Did you or anyone else recently perform work on the stove like replacing a component? If so, there’s a chance that the wires in the back were not connected properly. Harman, unlike most stove makers, uses dedicated “home runs” for their common wires. For each component there is a corresponding colored wired to feed the power and each component has its own white common wire returning to the controller...except for the igniter and the auger motor. They share one common from the pressure switch. VERIFY THAT EACH WHITE WIRE IS CONNECTED TO THE CORRECT COMPONENT BY REFERENCING YOUR PARTICULAR STOVE MODEL. A wiring diagram for your stove is included in your owner's manual and should also be attached somewhere on the stove itself behind the mechanical panel.



Warranty

Unfortunately sometimes products do not work like they are supposed to. We offer a 90 day warranty on manufacturer defects. Some manufacturers make this a very simple and easy process unfortunately others do not. Please be advised that warranty claims for these parts may take up to 4 weeks for processing, and customers must cover shipping.

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QUESTIONS & ANSWERS

Ask a Question
  • I have a p-68 stove that was working fine until I shut it off for cleaning. Tried to restart and the igniter wouldn't work. Got 5 blinks on the status light. I started a fire in the manual mode and the feed light would come on but the motor didn't run. I tried it in both room and stove temp mode. No luck. The distribution and combustion blowers work. Did I loose the control panel? Thanks

    According to the manual:
    5 Blinks (In Igniter Auto. Mode Only): Indicates that the unit has failed to light within the 36 minute start cycle. To reset - Turn Mode Selector to "OFF", then turn to either mode again.)

    My questions are these:

    Is the stove being fed pellets? If not, then the auger motor may have failed. You can jump the motor with direct power to see if it will turn for you. If it turns then it will not need to be replaced.

    Are any of the doors open when you try to start the stove, ie hopper lid, firebox area, ash pan door? If any of these are open when you try to start the stove then the stove will not get the proper amount of vacuum to let the auger motor distribute the pellets. If all doors are securely shut, check to make sure that the wires are attached to the pressure switch and the hose is connected and in good condition. The pressure switch can also be jumped by attaching the two spade connectors that are attached to it together. Start the stove up. If it puts out pellets then either the pressure switch is faulty or the vacuum hose is leaking air.

    Is the burnpot scraped clean and the holes have anything plugging them up cleared out. Has the ash that will build up in the cavity of the burnpot been cleaned out? Sometimes ash will fall on top of the ignitor thru these holes and prevent the heat from getting to the pellets. Once you have made sure that the burnpot cavity is clear of ash, be sure to put the burnpot clean out cover securely back in place. If the plate is loose or off the stove will not be able to light the pellets. The heat from the ignitor must be only allowed to escape thru the small holes in the burnpot where the pellets are. 

  • My Harman Accentra Insert will not go out when you turn it off. I see others have had the same problem. What would be the most likely part failure to cause this.

    The stove can take sometimes up to 30 to 45 minutes to shut down. The combustion blower will continue to work until the ESP probe no longer senses heat coming from embers still burning in burn pot.    If the stove's combustion blower is running after all embers are out it may be a false reading from the ESP probe. Make sure that the ESP probe is clean. Use a soft cloth so as not to scratch it. What happens from time to time is that build up of ash will get caked on probe. When the stove is running that build will get heated up and retain the heat longer. This ESP will sense the heat coming from that build up and shut down time will be extended. If after you have cleaned the ESP you still are having the problem then the ESP may be faulty and need to be replaced. If after replaceing the ESP you are still having the same issue then your control board may need to be replaced.

  • Will this for Kevin Harman Invincible T free-standing

    Unfortunately, Harman has discontinued the control board for the Invincible T part number 3-20-00600. There is no upgrade kit available for it. You may be able to take the board to your local electronics shop and they may be able to rebuild it. But the board you are asking about will not work in your stove.

  • Our stove will not turn off anymore on its own we have to unplug it from the wall. What does it need a new control panel or sensor?

    Most likely it is the room sensor. Do you get an error code on the control board? Please check out our trouble shooting tips here at this link. The room sensor probe is usually a 4 blink status.

  • Stove not working in room temp mode. It does work in stove temp mode. Any reason why?

    I suspect that your room sensor is the problem. The first thing I will ask you to check is that the room sensor is securely attached to the spade connectors of the room sensor terminal on the back of your stove. Once you have checked this area for proper connection, inspect the condition of the wire itself. If there are any breaks or tears in the protective cover of the wires this may indicate that there is damage to the wire that would not allow the sensor at the end to properly transmit temperature to the control board. Sometimes the damage is not visible or the sensor has simply failed.

    I would also like to mention if you are attempting to run the stove in room temp mode and the temperature in the room is already at the desired temperature the stove will not come on until the temperature in the room drops. In addition to this if you have the room sensor located in an area that is warmer then the rest of the room (ie near base board heat or sunny window where the sun rays are heating it) then it is reading the temperature at that location and not the actual room temperature.
     
    For most Harman Pellet Stoves, other than the Absolute 43/63 and the Allure 50, Harman uses the same Room Sensor. The replacement part can be found here: 3-20-00906

  • Installed new igniter on p68, would not ignite, ignition fight did not come on???

    If the igniter light is not coming on, 1. Make sure that your toggle switch for the igniter is in the AUTO position on the controller. 2. Feel around in the burnpot and verify whether the burn pot is getting warm if there is not heat detected make sure that your wiring is correct and that the disconnects for the wire terminals are making contact metal to metal. If there is still not an ignition light and there is no heat being detected and your wiring is, replace the controller.

  • My Harmon p68 is not feeding pellets right. The feeder is set on 4 and feeds then takes a while before it feeds again. When I got the stove it would heat up good now it seems like something wrong I know it’s not making the temp it’s in my basement and the temp only gets to 68 . When I first put stove it would hold a temp of 78. And would use a bag of pellets in a 12 hour. Now it’s not doing that. I had technician look at it last year but they said was working could the control board be going bad

    This is not something we can answer without being in front of the stove, however; there are two different auger motors for this stove. One is 6RPM and the other is 4RPM, did you replace an auger motor recently? Are your DIP switch settings correct?

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