Simpson Pellet Vent PRO Horizontal Kit 3" to 4" Increaser: 4PVP-KHA-AMP

4" PelletVent PRO, Horizontal Kit.

Replacement For Part Number:

• 4PVP-KHA

UPC: 662492160640

The pellet venting we sell is Dura-Vent Pellet Vent Pro. Pellet Vent Pro is a twist-lock pellet vent that has an integrated silicon seal within the vent. Simpson Dura-Vent, the pellet venting available in home stores like Home Depot and Lowe's (and we do not sell) is a lower grade pellet venting without the integrated silicon seal. THESE VENTING TYPES ARE MADE BY THE SAME MANUFACTURER BUT THEY CANNOT BE USED TOGETHER AND ARE NOT COMPATIBLE.

General Installation Instructions:

1. Place your stove where it is going to be. If your stove requires a hearth pad, make sure the stove is on it.
2. Attach your appliance adapter to the stove using the included RTV sealant and at least 1 screw to the collar.
3. If you are going up inside the house, attach your clean out T and then build your venting upwards, attach your 90° Elbow and then mark the center point. Mark the center point where the venting meets the wall.
4. Using a drill bit that is longer than the depth of the wall, drill your center hole in the wall to the outside.
5. The black side of the thimble is the inner section and the galvanized is the exterior section. Using the black half of the thimble, trace it's annular tube at the center point where your hole is. This will be the line for removing the section of the wall. Do the same on the exterior of the wall with the galvanized half of the thimble.
6. Attach both halves the the thimble together through the wall.
7. Slide your straight length of pipe through the wall thimbles and attach it to the appliance adapter.
8. If you are creating your vertical rise on the exterior, just start attaching your venting to find the wall pass-through point, this is where you will cut your hole for the wall thimble. You will attach your clean out T to the venting outside.
9. Secure your wall thimble to the wall with screws. Always use exterior rated screws for the outside connection to avoid rust marks from developing.
10. Attach your horizontal cap to the end of the venting.

In addition, the following must be observed:

A. The clearance above grade must be a minimum of 12".

B. The clearance to a window or door that may be opened must be a minimum of 48" to the side, 48" below the window/door, 12" above the window/door. (with outside air installed, 9” to the side and below)

C. A 12" clearance to a permanently closed window is recommended to prevent condensation on the window.

D. The vertical clearance to a vented soffit located above the terminal within a horizontal distance of 2 feet (60 cm) from the center-line of the terminal must be a minimum of 18".

E. The clearance to an non-vented soffit must be a minimum of 12".

F. The clearance to an outside corner is 11" from the center of the pipe.

G. The clearance to an inside corner is 12".

H. A vent must not be installed within 3 feet (90 cm) above a gas meter/regulator assembly when measured from the horizontal center-line of the regulator.

I. The clearance to service regulator vent outlet must be a minimum of 6 feet.

J. The clearance to a non-mechanical air supply inlet to the building or the combustion air inlet to any other appliance must be a minimum of 48”.

K. The clearance to a mechanical air supply inlet must be a minimum of 10 feet. (with outside air installed, 6 feet)

L. The clearance above a paved sidewalk or a paved driveway located on public property must be a minimum of 7 feet.

M. The clearance under a veranda, porch, deck or balcony must be a minimum of 12 inches. (B. also)

NOTE: The clearance to vegetation and other exterior combustibles such as mulch is 36” as measured from the center of the outlet or cap. This 36” radius continues to grade.

A vent shall not terminate directly above a sidewalk or paved driveway which is located between two single-family dwellings and serves both dwellings. Only permitted if veranda, porch, deck, or balcony is fully open on a minimum of 2 sides beneath the floor.

How to Determine Venting Diameter?

When trying to figure out what size venting is best for your install, follow each of these rules. If none of these rules apply you’re good to use 3” venting.

Rule 1: The appliance collar, appliance take-off, tailpipe, or exhaust stub are a few of the common names for the stove’s exhaust connection. Measure the outside diameter of this connection. Most are 3 inches but some are 4 inches. This is the MINIMUM venting size approved for your stove you cannot reduce down to 3” if you have a 4” collar.

Rule 2: As a general rule, if the total lineal feet of your proposed venting is more than 20 feet, do not use 3-inch venting. Increase to 4 inches as close to the stove as possible.

Rule 3: Equivalent Vent Length Determination (EVL) - All venting components restrict airflow so accommodations must be made for turns and lengths of venting. This also determines whether 3” diameter is sufficient

90° Turns are equal to 5

45° Turns are equal to 3

The total horizontal feet are multiplied by 1

The total vertical feet are multiplied by 0.5

If the sum of these parts equals more than 15, this particular installation requires 4” venting.

General Installation Rules:

1. Always make sure that you get the proper permits and inspections for your install.
2. The first component of any installation is always an appliance adapter by itself or a component such as a “T” connection with the appliance adapter built-in. If you are increasing from 3” to 4”, try to do it at the adapter for the cleanest looking install. The last connection in any install is always a cap.
3. Any combined vent length, vertically or horizontally, that is longer than 5’ must be supported by a bracket. Try to keep your installation simple. For example: the vertical length from stove to wall thimble should always be less than 5 feet to avoid an unsightly wall bracket. If this is the height that is required, consider exiting wall at a lower point and having your vertical rise be on the outside where a bracket is less noticeable.
4. No venting can travel more than 10’ horizontally ever. A basic rule: for every 1 foot of horizontal travel there must be 1.5 feet of vertical after it. For example, if your vent goes 2 feet to the side, your vent should go 3 feet up afterward.
5. All vertical runs and all horizontal runs that make a 90° turn will require an access point to clean them out. A great install is one that doesn’t require the venting to be disassembled to maintain it.
6. NEVER EVER enclose a vent seam within a horizontal wall thimble. The vent pipe that travels through a wall must be continuous through the enclosed wall cavity.
7. Whenever possible, incorporate an adjustable vent length close to the stove in installations. This will prevent you from having to move the stove to accommodate venting limitations.
8. Venting must ALWAYS travel up and away from the stove. NEVER vent downward or have a redirect of the venting to come back towards the stove.

Before You Start Cutting Holes Through a Wall or Ceiling

A great install is not only functional and safe but is also aesthetically pleasing. Making it look good often requires a very strong working knowledge within the limitations of venting components. Understanding how they piece together isn’t something they teach you in the NFI exam, so here’s how I do it.

1. ALWAYS place the stove in the room first as it will be installed. Pretend it’s already hooked up. Does it look good? Is there harmony and balance? Are your corner measurements symmetrical? Is the stove level? If this is where the stove is going to reside will you be happy? Does it look pleasing to you? Now is the time to make sure that these things are squared up. If there is something that is off, try to correct it now.
2. Verify all of your clearances to combustibles from the stove, per the installation manual. Adjustments may need to be made. If you make any adjustments to the placement of ANYTHING, stand back and look at it all again. Do not worry about the exterior right now. Look good? Great, let’s move on…
3. Always let the venting dictate where the hole in the ceiling or wall is going to be. Start connecting your vent. This is a dry fit of the components to get an idea of venting limitations. With any luck, everything will connect up perfectly as intended. Once your vent gets close to the wall or ceiling, make a mark at the center. This will be the point where the vent passes through the wall. Never move the stove to accommodate the venting after you have verified all of your clearances. If your vent is too long, but is going to pass through the wall or ceiling, get as close as you can. Often you can leave off one venting length and kind of eye it up and make a mark on the surface where the center of the vent will pass through.

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