Replacement kit of ten Harman 306 Watt igniters. Compatible with most automatic ignition Harman units. Great for Pellet Stove Service Techs!
*(Not compatible with units using the pressurized ignition system)*
Note:Previous versions of this igniter had several variations in the number of fins (See Notation Below). This igniter will replace all prior versions.
Igniter Fin Variations: 11 fins prior to 2008, 13 fins in stoves 2008-2010, 15 fins from 2011-2018 and is currently 16 fins.
Note: When using this igniter to replace an old style Harman igniter, it may be necessary to also upgrade to the new igniter cradle 1-00-777907. Please visually compare your cradles, the old cradles are no longer supported or made.
1.) The igniter is located in the burn pot. (To access the ignitor you must first loosen the two wing nuts securing the burn pot clean-out cover to the bottom of the pot. Once both wing nuts are loosened the cover plate can be removed).
2.) The igniter is accessed and changed through the front of the stove, but you will also need to access the rear of the stove to free the wiring.
3.) From the rear of the unit, locate the yellow and light blue wires for the igniter at the point where they pass through the neck of the burn pot into the rear of the stove, it is directly under the auger (On freestanding stoves this will require that the rear / side shields are removed. When replacing the ignitor on an insert the unit will need to be slid forward and pulled out of the firebox. On some units, there may be a small rubber grommet or a dab of high temp silicone where the ignitor wires transition to the back of the unit.)
4.) In this area you should notice extra wire looped together (Likely, this excess wire will be secured in position with a zip tie). This extra wire needs to be freed up so that the disconnects can be pulled forward and disconnected from the neck of the burn pot. This can be done by carefully cutting the zip tie and gently pushing about 12" of the yellow and light blue wire into the cavity of the stove where the ignitor is located.
5.) From the front of the stove, remove the two 5/16" or 8mm screws that hold the igniter cradle inside the burn pot (Do not discard these screws).
6.) Drop the igniter assembly down and pull it forward until you can see the wire disconnects, then disconnect the wires from the harness and remove the whole assembly.
7.) To remove the igniter from the cradle, twist the two tabs that secure the flat plate to the ignitor (If using the updated cradle there will not be an igniter retainer plate). Your old igniter can now be removed (Pay special attention to how the ignitor is positioned in the cradle. The replacement will be positioned in the same way).
8.) Position your new ignitor in the cradle, reposition the previously removed plate (Updated cradles will not have this retainer plate), twist the tabs to secure it in place, and reinstall the cradle using the two 5/16" or 8mm mounting screws (If you have an updated cradle gently tighten the two screws at the bottom of the cradle to seat the igniter against the bottom of the burn pot).
9.) From the rear of the unit, gently pull the excess wire you previously feed forward to remove the slack, coil the extra wire length, and secure it with a zip tie.
10.) Reinstall the cover plate and test your ignitor to ensure it is operating correctly.
Troubleshooting
Airflow:
-It is important to make sure your burn pot and venting are clean. A build-up of carbon or ash in the burn pot or venting system can restrict airflow through the unit. Often the igniter is working fine, and this restriction in airflow is what causes issues with ignition. If these areas of the stove are clean and your stove will not ignite or there is a long delay during ignition you should inspect your door gasket, door latch, and burn pot ignitor cover. If the door does not make a tight seal, air can be drawn into the stove through this area instead of being pulled through the neck of the burn pot and across the ignitor.
Control Board Display:
-If your igniter light is not illuminated on the control board check the igniter toggle switch to make sure it is not in the "manual" position. The toggle switch MUST be in the auto position in order to allow the control board to send power to the element.
Check The Burn Pot:
-If the ignitor light is illuminated on your control board, the unit feeds fuel but the pellets do not ignite, open the door and *carefully* feel around the burn pot to see if you can sense any warmth. If you do not feel any warmth or see a visible glow it's likely that the ignitor has failed. If you feel warmth/heat around the burn pot it is possible that you have an airflow issue, build-up in the holes in the burn pot / around the ignitor, or you may have an issue with the ignitor cradle/ holder.
It is advisable to ALWAYS replace your door gasket when you are replacing an igniter. A leaking door gasket is often a contributing factor to igniter failure.
Troubleshooting Igniters:
Igniter failure can be verified on one of three ways. The easiest and most common way to see if the igniter is working is to start your stove or grill and visually look for the orange glow; however, some appliances do not have a visual way to do this, so you may have to physically feel around in the burn pot after the stove has been on for a few minutes to “feel” for heat being generated. If you can see the glow or can feel the heat from the igniter, chances are that the igniter is actually working. If this is the case, retry the startup process. Make sure your burn pot is seated correctly if it is removable. Make sure that your ash pan, door or hopper lid is closed as this will provide an airtight seal on the stove, which most igniters will require for proper ignition. If you still do not have any luck, give the stove a good cleaning, including the vent, and try again. If these attempts fail, further troubleshooting will be required, which leads us to the third method.
For this method, you will need a DMM (Digital Multi-Meter). Gain access to the igniter and remove it from the stove or insert. While you are taking the igniter out, verify that it is installed correctly with the correct mounting equipment, screws, etc.. With the igniter removed from the stove, you will need to look over the part to find the rated watts, it’s usually stamped on the metal somewhere. If you cannot find it, look on our website for the correct igniter; the information you are looking for will be under “technical specs”
If your Ohms reading is within 10%, more or less than the rating (46Ω +/- 10%), it’s good. If the igniter has a “contained short” or a short within itself and not grounding out, your Ohms reading will be very low...usually in the single digits. Generally, you cannot have a faulty igniter with too high of a resistance reading unless an igniter is installed that is way out of spec. An example of this would be your stove requires a 300W igniter but the stove has a 250W igniter installed. The reading in this scenario would be 52Ω. The reading would be correct to the igniter but would be the wrong value for the specified 300W igniter. That’s why it’s usually good to look at the part itself for the watts rating.
Warranty
Unfortunately, sometimes products do not work like they are supposed to. We offer a 90 day warranty on manufacturer defects. Some manufacturers
make this a very simple and easy process unfortunately others do not. Items must be used in accordance with the manufacturers guidelines to qualify for warranty replacement. Please
be advised that warranty claims for these parts may take up to 4 weeks for processing, and customers must cover shipping.
Shipping Information
This Item Qualifies For Free Shipping!
When Will My Order Ship?
All orders are typically processed within 24 hours of receiving payment and are shipped from us same day if placed before our shipping cutoff time (Monday - Friday: 12PM, Saturday: 10AM, Sunday: No Shipping), orders placed after our cutoff time are shipped the next morning.
Do You Offer Express Shipping?
Yes! Please note the shipping times are based on business days, weekends and holidays do not count to the delivery date. Please see our expedited ship time schedules here.
How Does Free Shipping Work?
Most orders over $99 qualify for free shipping! Orders which ship for free are shipped with either USPS or UPS based on our discretion. If you are using a PO box, free shipping orders will always go USPS.
Do You Ship To Canada?
We ship to Canada! We estimate USPS to take 4-10 days once receiving your package from us. We do not offer expedited shipping of any kind to Canada. Please allow an extra 2-5 days for all shipments to Canada. Free shipping is not available to Canada.
Do You Ship To Alaska Or Hawaii?
We ship to both Alaska and Hawaii! We do not offer next day or two day shipping to Alaska or Hawaii. Free shipping is not available to Alaska or Hawaii.
Do You Ship Outside The US Or Canada?
Unfortunately, at this time we do not offer international shipping other than to Canada.
Shipping Time Estimations
For information on shipping time estimations, see the Shipping Information & Transit Times on the shipping page.
Replacement kit of ten Harman 306 Watt igniters. Compatible with most automatic ignition Harman units. Great for Pellet Stove Service Techs!
*(Not compatible with units using the pressurized ignition system)*
Note:Previous versions of this igniter had several variations in the number of fins (See Notation Below). This igniter will replace all prior versions.
Igniter Fin Variations: 11 fins prior to 2008, 13 fins in stoves 2008-2010, 15 fins from 2011-2018 and is currently 16 fins.
Note: When using this igniter to replace an old style Harman igniter, it may be necessary to also upgrade to the new igniter cradle 1-00-777907. Please visually compare your cradles, the old cradles are no longer supported or made.
1.) The igniter is located in the burn pot. (To access the ignitor you must first loosen the two wing nuts securing the burn pot clean-out cover to the bottom of the pot. Once both wing nuts are loosened the cover plate can be removed).
2.) The igniter is accessed and changed through the front of the stove, but you will also need to access the rear of the stove to free the wiring.
3.) From the rear of the unit, locate the yellow and light blue wires for the igniter at the point where they pass through the neck of the burn pot into the rear of the stove, it is directly under the auger (On freestanding stoves this will require that the rear / side shields are removed. When replacing the ignitor on an insert the unit will need to be slid forward and pulled out of the firebox. On some units, there may be a small rubber grommet or a dab of high temp silicone where the ignitor wires transition to the back of the unit.)
4.) In this area you should notice extra wire looped together (Likely, this excess wire will be secured in position with a zip tie). This extra wire needs to be freed up so that the disconnects can be pulled forward and disconnected from the neck of the burn pot. This can be done by carefully cutting the zip tie and gently pushing about 12" of the yellow and light blue wire into the cavity of the stove where the ignitor is located.
5.) From the front of the stove, remove the two 5/16" or 8mm screws that hold the igniter cradle inside the burn pot (Do not discard these screws).
6.) Drop the igniter assembly down and pull it forward until you can see the wire disconnects, then disconnect the wires from the harness and remove the whole assembly.
7.) To remove the igniter from the cradle, twist the two tabs that secure the flat plate to the ignitor (If using the updated cradle there will not be an igniter retainer plate). Your old igniter can now be removed (Pay special attention to how the ignitor is positioned in the cradle. The replacement will be positioned in the same way).
8.) Position your new ignitor in the cradle, reposition the previously removed plate (Updated cradles will not have this retainer plate), twist the tabs to secure it in place, and reinstall the cradle using the two 5/16" or 8mm mounting screws (If you have an updated cradle gently tighten the two screws at the bottom of the cradle to seat the igniter against the bottom of the burn pot).
9.) From the rear of the unit, gently pull the excess wire you previously feed forward to remove the slack, coil the extra wire length, and secure it with a zip tie.
10.) Reinstall the cover plate and test your ignitor to ensure it is operating correctly.
Troubleshooting
Airflow:
-It is important to make sure your burn pot and venting are clean. A build-up of carbon or ash in the burn pot or venting system can restrict airflow through the unit. Often the igniter is working fine, and this restriction in airflow is what causes issues with ignition. If these areas of the stove are clean and your stove will not ignite or there is a long delay during ignition you should inspect your door gasket, door latch, and burn pot ignitor cover. If the door does not make a tight seal, air can be drawn into the stove through this area instead of being pulled through the neck of the burn pot and across the ignitor.
Control Board Display:
-If your igniter light is not illuminated on the control board check the igniter toggle switch to make sure it is not in the "manual" position. The toggle switch MUST be in the auto position in order to allow the control board to send power to the element.
Check The Burn Pot:
-If the ignitor light is illuminated on your control board, the unit feeds fuel but the pellets do not ignite, open the door and *carefully* feel around the burn pot to see if you can sense any warmth. If you do not feel any warmth or see a visible glow it's likely that the ignitor has failed. If you feel warmth/heat around the burn pot it is possible that you have an airflow issue, build-up in the holes in the burn pot / around the ignitor, or you may have an issue with the ignitor cradle/ holder.
It is advisable to ALWAYS replace your door gasket when you are replacing an igniter. A leaking door gasket is often a contributing factor to igniter failure.
Troubleshooting Igniters:
Igniter failure can be verified on one of three ways. The easiest and most common way to see if the igniter is working is to start your stove or grill and visually look for the orange glow; however, some appliances do not have a visual way to do this, so you may have to physically feel around in the burn pot after the stove has been on for a few minutes to “feel” for heat being generated. If you can see the glow or can feel the heat from the igniter, chances are that the igniter is actually working. If this is the case, retry the startup process. Make sure your burn pot is seated correctly if it is removable. Make sure that your ash pan, door or hopper lid is closed as this will provide an airtight seal on the stove, which most igniters will require for proper ignition. If you still do not have any luck, give the stove a good cleaning, including the vent, and try again. If these attempts fail, further troubleshooting will be required, which leads us to the third method.
For this method, you will need a DMM (Digital Multi-Meter). Gain access to the igniter and remove it from the stove or insert. While you are taking the igniter out, verify that it is installed correctly with the correct mounting equipment, screws, etc.. With the igniter removed from the stove, you will need to look over the part to find the rated watts, it’s usually stamped on the metal somewhere. If you cannot find it, look on our website for the correct igniter; the information you are looking for will be under “technical specs”
If your Ohms reading is within 10%, more or less than the rating (46Ω +/- 10%), it’s good. If the igniter has a “contained short” or a short within itself and not grounding out, your Ohms reading will be very low...usually in the single digits. Generally, you cannot have a faulty igniter with too high of a resistance reading unless an igniter is installed that is way out of spec. An example of this would be your stove requires a 300W igniter but the stove has a 250W igniter installed. The reading in this scenario would be 52Ω. The reading would be correct to the igniter but would be the wrong value for the specified 300W igniter. That’s why it’s usually good to look at the part itself for the watts rating.
Warranty
Unfortunately, sometimes products do not work like they are supposed to. We offer a 90 day warranty on manufacturer defects. Some manufacturers
make this a very simple and easy process unfortunately others do not. Items must be used in accordance with the manufacturers guidelines to qualify for warranty replacement. Please
be advised that warranty claims for these parts may take up to 4 weeks for processing, and customers must cover shipping.
Shipping Info
This Item Qualifies For Free Shipping!
When Will My Order Ship?
All orders are typically processed within 24 hours of receiving payment and are shipped from us same day if placed before our shipping cutoff time (Monday - Friday: 12PM, Saturday: 10AM, Sunday: No Shipping), orders placed after our cutoff time are shipped the next morning.
Do You Offer Express Shipping?
Yes! Please note the shipping times are based on business days, weekends and holidays do not count to the delivery date. Please see our expedited ship time schedules here.
How Does Free Shipping Work?
Most orders over $99 qualify for free shipping! Orders which ship for free are shipped with either USPS or UPS based on our discretion. If you are using a PO box, free shipping orders will always go USPS.
Do You Ship To Canada?
We ship to Canada! We estimate USPS to take 4-10 days once receiving your package from us. We do not offer expedited shipping of any kind to Canada. Please allow an extra 2-5 days for all shipments to Canada. Free shipping is not available to Canada.
Do You Ship To Alaska Or Hawaii?
We ship to both Alaska and Hawaii! We do not offer next day or two day shipping to Alaska or Hawaii. Free shipping is not available to Alaska or Hawaii.
Do You Ship Outside The US Or Canada?
Unfortunately, at this time we do not offer international shipping other than to Canada.
Shipping Time Estimations
For information on shipping time estimations, see the Shipping Information & Transit Times on the shipping page.
